Decenio – Rioja Reserva – 1999 – Bodegas Las Orcas

Rioja made essentially in the old style, with a classic red berry/forest floor nose coming through the upfront vanilla. (24 months in a mix of French and US oak.) There’s a prominent yoghurty-malolactic character. Not hugely acidic, but as it is relatively lightly-bodied as Rioja goes, the acid stands out a little more. 

Quite good heritage to this wine, made in Rioja Alavesa (which tends to produce slightly heavier bodied wines, and more wines in the heavier, modern Rioja style) from 100% Tempranillo (in latter times the most important Rioja grape variety, though it was not always so) with a large percentage coming from old vines.

I found this disappointing when I opened it, slightly watery and without the full depth of flavour I’d expect from some Riojas of the same age and level. To my surprise, though, it beefed up over the next couple of evenings as I slowly finished it, suggesting a wine still wanting a bit of cellar time.

Tondonia (red) – Rioja Reserva – 2001

López de Heredia is one of the all-time great Rioja houses, making wines in an old, slightly oxidative style. I am in particularly in love with the old vintages one comes across from time to time of the white Gran Reserva Tondonia, which tends to be quite well oxidised, hinting at sherry.

It’ll be a long time before this red starts feeling oxidised. Structurally smooth, stylish and slightly sharp, to begin with it is somewhat elusive in terms of flavour; it offers the classic Rioja notes of brambly fruit and oaky vanilla but is clearly still holding a lot in the back shop. Aeration induces massive changes; first the fruit becomes much more defined (now rather clearly a blend of raspberry and bramble) and other notes waft their way in, including liquorice, salami, and cigar box (which is a classic Bordeaux note, not to be expected in Rioja, but it’s here). Within an hour of being opened, a stupendous, gamey character has emerged and the fruit is showing orange notes. Wild, delicious, give it a good airing.

Ken Wright – Guadalupe Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008

Classy Oregon Pinot Noir – not much Oregonian Pinot seems to make its way to the UK any more, and we drank this Stateside. In terms of New World Pinot Noir, Oregon is to California as New Zealand is to Australia; better, thanks primarily to the cooler climate.

This chappie is from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA (American Viticultural Area), itself a subdivision of the Willamette Valley AVA, most known for its Pinot Noir.

This being the New World, though, I still expected a punch, but I got a glide. Smooth, smooth, smooth; a young but smooth operator. Powerful, but gentle; the initial fruit (sour cherry) comes with a dusting of spice, oaky vanilla and burnt (not buttery) toast. With time, slightly earthy, slightly stony notes show through. Extremely gentle at the back of the palate (not hugely acidic), it glides down. A complete pleasure to drink now, but I suspect this become more individual given aging – the 2 hours it was open while we were drinking it was not enough for it.

Château de Monthélie – 2002 – Sur la Velle – Eric de Suremain

I saw the word “Château” and, obtusely ignoring the shape of the bottle, assumed we were to be drinking Bordeaux. It was only at the first nosing, when I got a fantastic whiff of pure raspberry fruit, that I realised my mistake.

So, Burgundy; from the 1er Cru vineyard of Sur la Velle in the Monthélie appellation of the Côte de Beaune (the Côte de Beaune being better known for white wines).

The wine is already showing the beginnings of a bricky fade at the rim; the bouquet, as noted, is pure, fresh (not jammy) raspberry, with a hint of vanilla behind. Good acid; it turns out to be brilliant with Chinese food, although I think no particular food match had been conspired. It has apparently come round somewhat; previously light and dilute, it has fleshed out over the last two years. Not a grand wine, but a good wine showing well now.

Emmanuel Rouget – Bourgogne Aligoté – 1992

A wine made from Burgundy’s other white variety, Aligoté – I was amazed to discover there is such a thing as a varietal (not purely geographic) appellation: Bourgogne Aligoté AOC covers any Burgundian white wine made from Aligoté (officially allowing up to 15% Chardonnay as well, although – I am told – it may be common practice to use rather more than that).

A mature colour, almost a pink blush to this wine. Oak, almond, and quite a whack of acid – ironic that 1992 was a plump vintage producing wines that by and large weren’t for aging; this must have been very sharp when it was young. Aligoté does produce very acidic wines. No fruit left bar a hint of lemon; a texture that comes close to suggesting fizz. It feels very unusual to find so much acid in a such a mature wine. Reminiscent of old-style white Rioja.