Arlaud – Bourgogne – Roncevie – 2011

Officially only humble Bourgogne Rouge, yet this wine comes exclusively from the Roncevie vineyard which officially formed part of the Gevrey-Chambertin wine district until it was stripped of that status in a 1964 reclassification.

Rather classy for mere Bourgogne Rouge. All the cherry and red fruit one expects from the area, then plenty of chewy Gevrey structure, and a smooth finish. Still a bit young, but there is clearly a lot of perfume waiting around the corner.

89 points

Domaines Leflaive – Mâcon-Verzé – 2008

Domaines Leflaive – rather than Domaine Leflaive – is a label launched when the domaine moved outside its natural home in Puligny-Montrachet and went south, purchasing vineyards in the commune of Verzé in the Mâconnais. They immediately converted them to biodynamism in keeping with the philosophy of winemaking established at Domaine Leflaive since the 90s by Anne-Claude Leflaive.

Limey, austere, with the characteristic wet stoniness of Chablis, and a touch of white pepper on the finish. The oak has been handled very lightly and the texture is very much citric rather than creamy. Screams for oysters. After being open for a couple of hours, it is struggling towards a lemon meringue character.

88 points

Château Batailley – 1971

A Pauillac 5^th growth. (There is no second wine at this property; Château Haut-Batailley is rather the result of the previously larger Batailley being split into two properties in 1942 to avoid difficulties with inheritance laws. Château Haut-Batailley does have a second wine, Château La Tour L’Aspic.)

Wood and wood spice, a little liqourice – not a great deal of fruit left except that hint of overripe orange characteristic of late maturity. Delicate rather than dense, it doesn’t have intense tertiary flavour elements, but a classic mature Claret character. It remains a delicious drink.

89 points