Delagrange – Meursault – 2005

Dry, almost grapefruit; a crisp-like finish. In as much as there is a bouquet it’s a whiff of burnt new oak. Fine texture, not a fruit- or aroma-driven wine – given it’s not in the first flush of youth I’d hoped to have more showing through. (N1: “it’s not filling me with joy that we have another bottle of this”.) Returned to this the next day, it had gone faintly peanutty.

86/100

Javillier – Les Clousots – Meursault – 2009

Classic, powerful Meursault. Melon, citrus (a whiff of lime, really); oak and acid come together in a lingering finish. Lovely, textbook cuvee. Delicious already, but will be better.

92/100

Campo Viejo – Rioja – 2010

Not even a reserva, but a student staple of my yesteryear. Loadings of sugar sweet vanilla, Disney candyfloss, chocolate and red fruit. The palate is neither long nor complex; upfront, but then hollow, an underlying watery tartness behind the initial sweet fruit. Admittedly simple, but not bad as entry-level offerings go – I’d be lying if I said I hadn’t enjoyed this.   

Les Criots – Meursault – Ballot-Millot – 2009

Superb, already very approachable; perfumed tropical fruits with a hint of smoke, creamy rather than (very) oaky.

Domaine Rollin – 1999 – Aloxe-Corton

Vin rouge from the North of the Côte de Beaune; from the small appellation of Aloxe-Corton, which makes more red than white wine due to its proximity to Corton, the Côte de Beaune’s only red wine Grand Cru appellation.

 
Aged cherry, the suggestion of leather and glue, almost like a cobbler’s. Not a grand vin, slightly perfumed, slightly hot fruit, feels like it will fade from here on rather than develop further secondaries. 1999 was an excellent although apparently forward vintage, and I feel this wine has already shot the best of its bolt.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte – Blanc – 2010

On opening, the Sauvignon Blanc character was very clear (in fact 90% Sauvignon Blanc) – the fresh gooseberry bouquet. A little while later, it had become vivid passion fruit, and a little later again intense honeysuckle. Beautiful acidity and length. Extraordinarily lovely. This is at least a 96/100 wine, sublime. (Apparently beaten by the 2005, though).

Château Smith Haut Lafitte – 2008

Clearly better than the 2007 we tasted it against; the nose is denser and more complex, an initial mix of tobacco and mint, with the Cabernet character coming through more strongly. Needs at least 10 years.