Campo Viejo – Rioja – 2010

Not even a reserva, but a student staple of my yesteryear. Loadings of sugar sweet vanilla, Disney candyfloss, chocolate and red fruit. The palate is neither long nor complex; upfront, but then hollow, an underlying watery tartness behind the initial sweet fruit. Admittedly simple, but not bad as entry-level offerings go – I’d be lying if I said I hadn’t enjoyed this.   

Les Criots – Meursault – Ballot-Millot – 2009

Superb, already very approachable; perfumed tropical fruits with a hint of smoke, creamy rather than (very) oaky.

Domaine Rollin – 1999 – Aloxe-Corton

Vin rouge from the North of the Côte de Beaune; from the small appellation of Aloxe-Corton, which makes more red than white wine due to its proximity to Corton, the Côte de Beaune’s only red wine Grand Cru appellation.

 
Aged cherry, the suggestion of leather and glue, almost like a cobbler’s. Not a grand vin, slightly perfumed, slightly hot fruit, feels like it will fade from here on rather than develop further secondaries. 1999 was an excellent although apparently forward vintage, and I feel this wine has already shot the best of its bolt.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte – Blanc – 2010

On opening, the Sauvignon Blanc character was very clear (in fact 90% Sauvignon Blanc) – the fresh gooseberry bouquet. A little while later, it had become vivid passion fruit, and a little later again intense honeysuckle. Beautiful acidity and length. Extraordinarily lovely. This is at least a 96/100 wine, sublime. (Apparently beaten by the 2005, though).

Château Smith Haut Lafitte – 2008

Clearly better than the 2007 we tasted it against; the nose is denser and more complex, an initial mix of tobacco and mint, with the Cabernet character coming through more strongly. Needs at least 10 years.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte – 2007

Tobacco, plums on the nose. We looked somewhat in vain for the Cabernet character. The tannins are medium grippy, but the rim is looking a little faded already! Not a long keeper but still fairly solid, does need some time to soften out.

Tondonia Reserva (red) – 2001

Still quite meaty, although the tannins are soft enough for drinking now. Quite a bite of acid. Vivid, delicious, still quite primary raspberry fruit, from an excellent vintage, it is already superb but is likely to reward aging; I’ll be interested to see if it develops a lot of secondary flavours, or gets more fragrant, or even just quietens down. We had a half bottle, so a whole likely to be less well developed. Enormously good value for money when you think what you could get at for the same price elsewhere.