Talking of great Rioja vintages, 2001 is among the very best, a year of Grandes Reservas and Reservas Especiales not made in lesser vintages. Viña Ardanza is the name given to one of the range of wines made by La Rioja Alta, one the more classic bodegas. They produce a range of wines from lighter to greater, thus:
Viña Alberdi – a crianza
Viña Arana – a slightly lighter reserva
Viña Ardanza – a fuller-bodied reserva
Gran Reserva 904 - getting powerful
Gran Reserva 890 - rather grand! And not cheap, nor for drinking young.
They are all made from the classic Rioja blend, essentially Tempranillo backed up by Garnacha, then small amounts of Graciano and Mazuelo. 2000 was a pretty decent vintage in Rioja, but 2001 was stellar; La Rioja Alta is proud to declare that Viña Ardanza has been released as a reserva especial only three times, in the great vintage of 1964, in 1973 and now in 2001. (I’m surprised they missed 1970, also a great vintage – and 1981, too, come to think of it).
Viña Ardanza Reserva 2000
Quite dark for a Rioja, still with a bit of a purple tint suggesting youth. Classic Rioja on the nose: creamy vanilla with forest fruits, a little cinnamon. There’s plenty of oak there, though not as much as in some reservas. It’s a shade thinner in the mouth than the bouquet led me to expect, smooth, with notes of mushroom and game showing up as I give it time. Smooth and ready, but still quite young, it could happily evolve over another decade. (I do like my wines mature; and Rioja is especially well-suited to aging.)
Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial 2001
Forest floor again, but immediately heavier and gamier than I’m used to in Ardanza – also the oak seems noticeably more toasted. Tart, tannic and leafy on the palate, it definitely needs aging – more so than the 2000. The mushroom and game notes grow with time. Quite powerful for a Rioja, quite heavy-bodied, not as good a drink yet as the 2000, but when it’s had that tannic edge taken off it will be superb.
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