Saturday, 26 May 2012

Les Deux Salons


A classic Parisian brasserie, they call it, except that it’s round the corner from Trafalgar Square – does that not disqualify it from being Parisian? Or is, as the French would surely have it, that being Parisian is an esprit, not a geographical condition? Never mind. They are certainly trying very hard to look the part – the décor is very fin-de-siècle, and not the last siècle, but the one before that; dark wood, old lamps on gilt poles, faded mirrors, the bread served in red, upturned baskets that look like the sort of hats one sees in sixteenth-century paintings of religious dignitaries. It looks very much like the kind of place that would have turned away George Orwell in Down and Out in London and Paris, like Manet’s Bar at the Folies-Bergère. I screw my eyes half-shut and see the room bustling with arrogant bankers and impoverished young men of high sensibilities, characters from the pages of E.M.Forster.

Enough of the décor. N1 was lured here by the promise of the snail and bacon pie, and I must say, for a so-called starter, it was a generous pie well-studded with the little de-shelled gastropods (surely something with the name gastropod was made to be eaten – must not gastronomy be the art of eating snails?). Also starting, lamb sweetbreads were accompanied by mushroom-filled vol-au-vents. Nice enough, sweetbreads and vol-au-vents, but didn’t seem to do anything for each other.

We shared a big main of Andouillette de Troyes. I haven’t had an Andouillette that smelled so, shall we say, rustic (in the sense that some fine Burgundies can also be very euphemistically rustic) since I was last in Lyon some years ago. A big, fat, smelly sausage interlaced with the undulations of wandering intestines, with a beurre blanc sauce and frites on the side. For those who dislike tripe, this dish might be a repulsive mystery, a weird gastronomic challenge destined for Japanese gameshows, but at the end of our little pre-theatre the score was very decidedly N+N: One, Challenging French Sausage: Nil.

I started off liking the ambience, but somehow it waned; by the end of lunch, it had all come to seem somewhat overwrought. Les Deux Salons treads a fine line between real charm and feeling like Café Rouge on a mission to conquer the upper end of the market.


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