Viña Tondonia – Blanco – Gran Reserva – 1976

Dense amber. A first impression of candlewax on the nose, then with half an hour’s airing it’s going nutty. On the palate, the bitterness of Seville orange. I always forget how acidic Tondonia can be.

Although I’d have judged this was beyond developing much, over the evening walnuts become almost as prominent as the orange, and eventually a slightly oxidised style foregrounds itself, hinting at amontillado and even salt and vinegar crisps.

Dense, orangey, not quite as outstanding as the 1981.