Tuesday, 8 January 2013

Domaine Maume – Charmes-Chambertin – 1996


Tasting this blind, N1 and myself fired guesses all over France and North Italy but didn’t land in Burgundy. This tending-towards-heavy-bodied wine had suggestions of black fruit (even cassis) and white pepper, tasting notes designed to send us haring off in the wrong directions.

So, Burgundy, from the Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru vineyard/appellation (one of 24 Grand Cru sites for red wine in the Côte de Nuits, in the south part of the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin).

There is some bricking, but it doesn’t look too old.

There is certainly a presence of dark, dry fruit (even going a bit plummy; none of the classically Burgundian raspberries and strawberries), but the wine is dominated by somewhat leathery, savoury secondaries. It is not very much one thing but passingly touches a lot of bases: pepper, marmite, and Chinese food. I find a strong hint of things like ginger and turmeric in N1’s spice cupboard. After an hour, black tea has made a strong appearance. A grand, powerful wine made for the long haul.

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