Abel Mendoza – Jarrarte – Crianza – 2009

Much chunkier than the 2012 joven, rather tannic. Blackcherries and pepper. Fairly solid – needs time to smooth out. N1 preferred the immediate accessibility of the joven.   

84/100

Abel Mendoza – Jarrarte – Joven – 2012

Quite dark for a red Rioja, with a blackcherry yoghurt bouquet – not the sort of character that says typically says Tempranillo to me at all. Soft and creamy blackcherry and apple character, slightly watery, acidic, not complex. 

80/100

Abel Mendoza – Garnacha Blanca – 2012

Slightly more obviously oaky than the Tempranillo Blanco, and with a more prominently honeyed character (although still entirely dry, with the sharpness of sour apples), but broadly similar, if a touch less shorter / less structured. There is a mineral touch about it; N1 compares it to salt and vinegar crisps.  

87/100

Abel Mendoza – Tempranillo Blanco – 2012

I tend to think that white Rioja that veers away from the traditional oaky, oxidative character more often than not falls on its face, but this is a lovely exception. Wax, touches of honey and white flowers, and a green banana character reminiscent of olive oil, only lightly oaked, it rather feels to me more like a Rhône white.

89/100

La Rioja Alta 904 – 2001

A Gran Reserva from the bodega modestly named after the region where it comes from, Rioja Alta (Upper Rioja). Very old-school winemaking. 2001 was of course one of the great Rioja vintages. 

Garnet rim with some bricking. A very classic Rioja nose, cherry-driven, with slightly high-toned balsamic notes, and a touch of game, with a big but not dominant creamy measure of vanilla. Enormous finesse, and an incredibly smooth finish. The following day, it has both more aromatic, floral notes, and a sharper savoury tang, like Bovril. This wine is delightful now, but will only get better, and will be drinking splendidly 30 years hence.

94/100

G de Guiraud – Bordeaux Blanc – 2010

Château Guiraud is a Sauternes property mainly dedicated to their premier cru sweet wine, but they also produce this keenly-priced dry white.

My first impression is that it seems rather more Chenin than Sauvignon or Sémillon, rather more like something from the Loire than Bordeaux Blanc. Although a beeswaxy character does gradually emerge, it does not feel like one of those very waxy, Sémillon-driven Bordeaux Blancs; in fact, it is 80% Sauvignon and 20% Sémillon. Structurally, it seems a little gummed-up, dry but without very sharp acid, finding a peachy fruit on the finish it lacked through the rest of the palate; it does feel a little like a wine left jilted by the botrytis that never turned up.

It seemed both tighter and sharper the following day. Not a long keeper, but nevertheless probably does still need some time to come round.

86/100