I
attended a fascinating event at LEOS (the London Experimental Oenology
Seminars) in December given by Didier Mariotti, Chef de Cave at Mumm, in which
the Cuvée Lalou (the premium cuvée at Mumm, a 50-50 blend of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay) was served at different temperatures.
At
6°, the champagne was at its yeastiest, and seemed entirely Chardonnay-driven.
At
11°, the yeast character seemed somewhat different – more popcorn than bread.
Both Chardonnay and Pinot character were perceptible.
16°
seemed the least attractive way to serve the champagne, but it also brought out
the Pinot character, which expresses better at warmer temperatures; at this
temperature, the finish seemed rather bitter (and Pinot supplies that
bitterness). Nevertheless, there was also some interesting spice that
manifested at this temperature that didn’t appear in the colder pair.
90/100
(At 6° and 11°!)
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