Sunday, 30 March 2014

Maison Leroy – Côte-de-Beaune Villages – 1996


From the négociant arm of the great Domaine Leroy. Cherried, a little dusty, a little farmyardy, a bit of pot pourri, and a fair bit of oak spice left – clearly saw a lot of oak in its youth. With time, it acquires weight, and is the antithesis of the thin and acidic wine that you can find when you catch many a bottle of Burgundy at the wrong moment. Perhaps there is more structure to the wine than power in the discreetly expressed flavours. It is not “stunning” as the sommelier promised (although dinner in his Rotterdam restaurant, Parkheuvel, was pretty damn good), but it is a classic, straight-down-the-middle mature village Burgundy, doing everything it should. “Go for the bottom wine of a great producer, not the top wine of a weak one” is not an infallible proposition, but it worked here.

90/100

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