The Etiqueta Blanca (white label) is a no-longer-made
crianza from the great, historical bodega Marqués de Murrieta. Once emblematic of the most traditional, age-worthy
wines, the whites made in very oxidative styles, in recent years the bodega has
been making a lot of wines in more international, less Rioja-distinctive
styles. This white label showcases the lasting power of a wine that is perhaps
not very grand but which was properly made with quality fruit.
On opening, some slightly metallic, bretty
(?) notes blow off to reveal a classic bouquet of mature, red fruit (cranberry,
redcurrant) and mushrooms in the undergrowth, with the residual awareness this wine
once had a fair lick of oak. On the palate, brightly acidic, a little too much
so to make the wine very attractive without food.
Coming back to this the following day, it
surprises us by having grown in weight; the oak is more prominent, and the wine
seems more balanced. The bouquet is now slightly smoky blood oranges, and there
is a touch of curry spice. Perhaps not quite the same depth as some other
Riojas of a similar age, but a beautiful example of well-aged Rioja.
92/100
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