Thursday, 6 June 2013

Château Haut-Brion – 1983

The only first growth from the Graves, not the Médoc.

1983 was a hot vintage, overshadowed by its great predecessor 1982.
A lot of bricking; the rim is quite brown. Predictably well-structured; length, balance and elegance. The tannins are resolved and the wine is drinking very well, but there is still a fleshy backbone and I have no sense of any need to drink up soon. Some sources say drinking at its peak, although I felt it might still be holding something back and I’d be inclined to keep.

Although the wine is renowned for its tobacco character (often described as the typical Graves character) I found at least this bottle quite different. It began redolent of brambles and hedgerow flowers; it moved on to a powerful cedar and herb character, but disappointed me by never showing tobacco. At first approach (before the cedar appeared) it could have been a sturdy, fragrant Burgundy. More sweet than meat, which surprised me. The result of a more mellow vintage?

94/100

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