Inédito – Rioja – 2008

Red Rioja from Bodegas Lacus in the Rioja Baja area. Rioja Baja is the largest (and least prestigious) of the three Rioja areas (the other two being Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa). As the name (Rioja Baja, Low Rioja) implies, it is a low-lying and consequently hotter territory. As a result, Garnacha (Grenache) has been traditionally favoured here over Tempranillo, as it is better suited to the hotter, drier conditions. In the 80s many of these Garnacha vines were pulled out to be replaced by the better known Tempranillo, but recently there has been a move back to Garnacha together with a new marketing focus on the name Rioja Baja.

The Inédito exemplifies this Rioja Baja trend, since Tempranillo only makes up a small part of the total blend: 50% Graciano, 25% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. (Graciano is another classic Rioja variety, which thrives in arid conditions but tends not to be the dominant element in blends; but it ages very well and is usually an important component in Gran Reservas.)

Smells strongly of unbuttered (even slightly burnt) toast (as opposed to the buttered toast nose that so classically occurs in oaked Chardonnay). Pepper also comes over strongly (that’ll be the Garnacha) even before the black cherry fruit. A little bit gamey as well. Given time, a sweet bubblegum note comes through on the fruit, while the finish remains very peppery. Attractive if not deeply complex, I could never pin this down as Rioja in a blind tasting as it is unlike Tempranillo-driven Rioja; but it’s unfair to criticize wine from Rioja Baja for that. More in the style of new wave Rioja, even though it has been aged in American rather than French oak.

86/100