Montée de Tonnerre is a premier cru climat (vineyard site) in Chablis, highly valued as it just across a ravine from – and geologically very close to – the even more prestigious Chablis grand cru climats.
The 1991 Duplessis begins with notes of pear and more classic Chardonnay apple. Fuller with age, it doesn’t have that classic Chablis steeliness, but there is a mineral rasp among the honeysuckle that emerges as, with time, it becomes increasingly aromatic.
It wears its age very well – I understand that considerably older vintages are still drinking well.
No sign of any oak here, but I also understand that more recent vintages are being made with a little oak on show – rather a modern departure for Chablis.
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