Paternina – Gran Reserva – 1928

Not a typo – I was lucky to be trying the 1928 vintage from the primary Gran Reserva of Bodega Federico Paternina (the other being Conde de los Andes). Not surprisingly for a wine that has lasted so beautifully since then, 1928 was an excellent vintage.

While “truffled” is a fairly classic tasting note, I have never before had a wine that smelt so intensely of truffles. No doubt a function of extreme age – truffles, game and mushroom are exactly the sort of thing one expects from aging red wines. Underneath, one finds the classic Rioja wood notes and, with a little air, nutmeg. Light, fine acid on the palate with no fruit left to speak of (although N1 disagrees with me about this) – delicious, although following the bouquet is the real pleasure here.