Friday, 1 March 2013

Les Roches – 2002 – Chinon (Blanc)


I used to muddle Chinon and Chenin; Chinon is an appellation within the Loire Valley that (unusually for the Loire) makes mostly red wine (mostly from Cabernet Franc), but which also makes some white wine from (here the confusion) Chenin Blanc. So this is a Chenin from Chinon.

Quite a gold colour. The nose is an unusual blend of honey, firecrackers and beeswax; the palate is dry, acidic and waxy. The effect of struck matches in a waxy lemon would make me guess it was from the southern Rhône if I were to taste it blind. While there’s no oaky taste to it, the character does suggest a wine that has seen the inside of old (and hence non-flavour-imparting) oak barrels.

Its stands up well to vinegary, mustardy foods. A decade old from a superb vintage, this powerful wine seems to have already reached that happy timeless stage from which it will hardly budge however  long it’s kept.  

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