Tabhlik – Marsanne – 2006

Tabhlik is an Australian winery from the Nagambie Lakes wine region in Victoria (the southernmost territory on mainland Australia). They plausibly claim to have the oldest Marsanne vines in the world.

An unwooded, unblended Marsanne, in what is for me a real Old World style. First impressions are very Riesling like; a blend of peach, lime, apples and the hint of petrol. There’s a waxiness too, that is quite Sémillon-esque. Quite a lot of acid. Aromatically evolved, this has had enough time to open out well (I am sure younger vintages would currently be less attractive) and it has enough character to continue aging towards that almost timeless South Rhône style. Not complex perhaps, but well-structured and pretty good bang for the buck.

85/100