Pebbles and Clay: the Médoc

From the Pebbles and Clay: the Médoc tasting at Uncorked, Bishopsgate, London, on 23/7/13.

Pebbley soils mean much of the Médoc favours Cabernet Sauvignon, which – unlike Merlot – doesn’t like getting its feet wet, but the situation differs geographically. Downstream (to the north) the Bas-Médoc has more clay in the soil, meaning a higher proportion of Merlot and a product that is closer to the Merlot-driven wines of the right bank, while upstream, in the Haut-Médoc, where the better quality wines are produced, Cabernet is king. There are two generic Médoc appellations: AOC Médoc, which actually covers the Bas-Médoc, and AOC Haut-Médoc. Within the Haut-Médoc itself, 6 villages have their own appellations: from north to south, St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis, and Margaux. Listrac and Moulis have somewhat lower profiles, while the other four are considered the “big 4” of the Médoc. St-Estèphe is often considered to produce the most tannic wines of the four communes, but is also the commune with the highest proportion of Merlot due to the prevalence of clay soils. Pauillac is often considered to produce the most powerful wines, and responsible for the three of the five first growths, as it is unlikely to let you forget. St-Julien is the smallest of the four communes, and perhaps underrated as - like St-Estèphe - it is has no first-growth within its boundaries; yet there are superb seconds, thirds and fourths and some may argue it produces the most consistently complex wines of any of the communes. Margaux is said to produce the most perfumed wines of the four communes.

Only the Haut-Médoc has classed growths (i.e. wines listed in the 1855 classification), but the the Bas-Médoc does have some of the Cru Bourgeois wines. The Cru Bourgeois is an annually-produced classification of Bordeaux wines considered to be of high quality but which didn’t make it into the 1855 classification – there are some famous names among it.

Château Tour de By – 2006 – Médoc

A Cru Bourgeois wine. Very classic toast, cassis and leaf bouquet. Really needs the tannins to soften; on the rough side at the moment, with a bitter, green aftertaste. Seems a little out of balance; certainly needs another 3-5 years. Given breathing, it does improve, but I am not convinced it is on its way to greatness.

84/100

Château Sociando-Mallet – 2008 – Haut-Médoc

Another Cru Bourgeois. A lovely bouquet combining graphite, fruit and floral notes. Soon changing remarkably, throwing out chili and orange amid the more expected leaf and cassis. A creamily sweet palate. Still quite tannic; built to age, with a long finish. There’s a lot going on here.

89/100 

Château D’Angludet – 2004 – Margaux

Another highly regarded Cru Bourgeois producer. Quite a sweet bouquet; more strawberries and balsamic rather than cassis. Quite right bank, really; there is 35% of Merlot in the blend and perhaps the Merlot-friendly 2004 vintage is showing through. Beautiful, smooth tannins. The palate is very sweet, even caramel-like, but there is a good amount of oak-driven graphite behind. Doesn’t quite have the structure to age for a very long time; might be peaking already in 5 years.

88/100

Les Pagodes de Cos – 2001 – St-Estèphe

The second wine from the Deuxième cru Château Cos d’Estournel. A little lighter, definitely browning. A sour cherry fruit character (from a truncated malolactic fermentation?). It is very secondary now, toasty, animalistic, very savoury, evoking black tea. Complex, richly textured, smooth tannins, long finish.

92/100

Clos du Marquis – 2009 – St-Julien

Used to be the second wine of Léoville-Las Cases; now it exists as a wine in its own right. (Le Petit Lion de Marquis de las Cases has taken on second wine duties for Léoville-Las Cases). Still dark, young and primary. Sweet black fruit, blackcherry yoghurt with pepper, and quite chocolately. Masses of fruit, quite acidic, bright, but also very creamy, and quite soft for such a young wine – it almost feels like a “New World” Claret. Not a great oak influence. Still feels soft and relatively simple when up against the more mature wines; needs time to shed its puppy fat and it should be much better.

88/100

Château Leoville-Barton – 1998 – St-Julien

Very Cabernet-dominated, ultra-traditional style Claret, probably the most representative Château in St-Julien. The colour is still dense, dark mostly to the rim. There is still vigorous young black fruit, then cigar box, coffee, soil and leaf. Given time, it throws out massive cedar and pine notes, and becomes surprisingly high-toned. Very structured, acidic wine built to last for a long time.

93/100

Château Mouton Rothschild – 1989 – Pauillac

One of the three Premier Crus from Pauillac. A fascinating wine; still very tannic, and yet entirely tertiary in terms of flavour profile – game, Bovril, coffee, dark chocolate, eucalyptus, and even a high-toned hint of grappa. I’ve never had such tertiary character in such a tannic structure. Superb.

96/100