Monday 4 June 2012

Weingut Willi Bründlmayer, Riesling, Zöbinger Heiligenstein 2004


Weingut is winery in German; Zöbinger Heiligenstein is the vineyard in the Austrian region of Kamptal where this wine comes from. We were briefly worried we might have picked up a sweet wine but, unlike Germany, almost all Austrian Rieslings are made in a dry style.

Quite a developed dark gold colour. The bouquet is a classically Riesling blend of petrol and honey; the sweetness of the honey is not represented on the palate, quite dry. From 2004, already with the weight and dimension of a more mature wine; very classy. The texture is unusual; oily, but also with a suggestion of spritz. There are citrus notes that clarify into lime. With time, there is a suggestion of toasted hazelnuts (which I try to write off – this is not from the Mâcconais! But it is certainly there). N1 keeps saying “banana and moisturiser”, but I certainly don’t get banana; eventually she settles on coconut. A very fine Riesling; enough to keep us arguing about its identity right through the bottle.