Clos des Epeneaux – Comte Armand – Pommard – 1997

Clos des Epeneaux is a walled vineyard in the Burgundian commune of Pommard, in the Côte de Beaune.

An earthy nose, with wood and a little pencil lead showing through – almost more the sort of secondary note I’d be expecting out of the Médoc. Red fruit – cherry and cranberry – comes out with a bit of swirling. Still some grainy tannins there. With time, some more fragrant notes emerge – a hint of jasmine – but the dominant impression remains earthy. Also, a final, surprising, breath of mintiness. Entering quite a good place for drinking now, though I personally would keep it a bit longer.

Pommard neighbours Volnay, but the two communes can produce quite different wines; light and fragrant in Volnay, heavier, more powerful, and more tannic in Pommard. By that measure, the Comte Armand seems to be a fairly classic Pommard.

Coteau de Vernon – Condrieu – 2004

Condrieu is a small appellation in the Northern Rhône, just south of the Côte Rôtie, exclusively producing white wine from the Viognier variety.

Quite a restrained nose – it takes some working at. A fairly classic Viognier mix of peach and mineral notes, with a certain buttery fatness, and a small hit of melon. Very long aftertaste. Going to be great, not yet firing on all cylinders.

Clos des Papes – Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Blanc – 2003

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhône is better known for its heavy reds, but produces a few - sometimes quite distinguished - whites from blends dominated by Grenache Blanc and Roussanne.

The elusive bouquet of apricot and almond is difficult to get hold of, and takes a long time to come round. It’s obvious from the start that this is a wine for long-term aging, and it has been opened too soon. Terribly well-made – from the very hot vintage of 2003, but that doesn’t show through at all in the sharp acidity. Weighty, alcoholic, and slightly oily.

It’s only at the end of a long evening that I feel able to declare, “The Clos des Papes is opening out!” It has acquired a floral (geranium?), fennel note. “Go home, Neil,” fellow tasters respond.

We had this with the Condrieu (next post) and though both were lovely and clearly in need of a lot more time in bottle, the Clos des Papes did come across as superior.