Rioja vs. Ribera del Duero

I was at a fascinating tasting recently comparing these two great Spanish wine-making areas. Although they are not very far from each other geographically, there are important differences; the dominant American oak in (traditionally made) Rioja, the acceptance of French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec in Ribera. When put side by side, they are usually quite distinctive; what the tasting brought out very clearly was that Riojas tend to have softer fruit, softer tannins and, very distinctively, lower acidity than Riberas; Riberas tend to be drier, more structured and more acidic. (Riberas also come to the market earlier and consequently tend to get drunk too soon!)

Genoli – 2011 – Rioja Blanco

I’m not the greatest fan of the new wave of unoaked white Rioja as, to my way of thinking, it precludes what white Rioja used to be best at – acidic, well-oaked wines that age well. Viura (a.k.a. Macabeo) is the most characteristic white grape variety in La Rioja; it doesn’t have very pronounced fruit character, and a defined fruit character is more important in unoaked wines. I tend to find the new wave white Riojas (such as this) rather uninteresting.

Green apple, a whiff of fennel, fine for a glass but not very structured; I suspect it would get flabby and unappetizing if not served well chilled.  

Conde de Valdemar – 2004 – Rioja Gran Reserva

A fairly classic Rioja sort of profile (vanilla, red berry fruit) but rather light, with fruit on the bright side – a little bit simple. Not too much going on, rather disappointing (especially at £25). 2004 was an uneven vintage across Rioja, and I think it shows here. The fruit here probably should have been used in a less grand wine than a Gran Reserva.