I’m not the greatest fan of the new wave of unoaked
white Rioja as, to my way of thinking, it precludes what white Rioja used to
be best at – acidic, well-oaked wines that age well. Viura (a.k.a. Macabeo) is
the most characteristic white grape variety in La Rioja; it doesn’t have very
pronounced fruit character, and a defined fruit character is more important in
unoaked wines. I tend to find the new wave white Riojas (such as this) rather
uninteresting.
Green apple, a whiff of fennel, fine for a glass but
not very structured; I suspect it would get flabby and unappetizing if not
served well chilled.
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