I normally steer well clear of supermarket wines,
not so much because they are necessarily bad as because I’d much rather give my
business to an independent wine merchant. However, on an errand to M&S I
was intrigued by the idea of a wine made from Pedro Ximénez (a Spanish variety
normally used in sherry and dessert wines) made, for once, in dry style. But
this is not a very distinguished example: short, crisp, simple, a little lemony,
on the watery side with a slightly acrid quality, rather like a fading soda
drink. It reminds me somewhat of lower end Franconian wines.
