Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhône is better known for its heavy reds, but produces a few - sometimes quite distinguished - whites from blends dominated by Grenache Blanc and Roussanne.
The elusive bouquet of apricot and almond is difficult to get hold of, and takes a long time to come round. It’s obvious from the start that this is a wine for long-term aging, and it has been opened too soon. Terribly well-made – from the very hot vintage of 2003, but that doesn’t show through at all in the sharp acidity. Weighty, alcoholic, and slightly oily.
It’s only at the end of a long evening that I feel able to declare, “The Clos des Papes is opening out!” It has acquired a floral (geranium?), fennel note. “Go home, Neil,” fellow tasters respond.
We had this with the Condrieu (next post) and though both were lovely and clearly in need of a lot more time in bottle, the Clos des Papes did come across as superior.
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