The adjacent villages of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, in the Côte de Beaune, produce some of Burgundy’s best whites. These are classic expressions of Chardonnay, usually showing typical varietal character in straw yellow, oaked wines. As well as the differences imparted by vintage and the individual winemaker, the impact of terroir is clear: while Meursault tends to make wines with a certain savoury character, Puligny-Montrachet will tend to make sleeker, more elegant wines with more of a fruit or floral character. This is in part down to the different soils in the two villages, Comblachien limestone in Meursault and Pierre de Chassagne limestone in Puligny-Montrachet, and partly down to the fact that the vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet are on higher, more exposed ground than in lusher, more sheltered Meursault. In some cases wines from the vineyards where the two areas meet are harder to tell apart, although in this tasting even the wines from these areas – such as the shared Les Perrieres and Les Charmes in Meursault – mostly retained their appellation character.
This comparative tasting was one of the excellent Rose Murray Brown Masterclass series, hosted in Edinburgh on 6/9/10. The most attractive wines of the evening for me were the Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clavoillon 2007 Domaine Leflaive, and the Meursault Premier Cru ‘Genevrieres’ 2005 Moret-Nominee. A score draw for Puligny-Montrachet versus Meursault. These being white wines, they are not suffering as much as reds of similar quality and vintage might from being unready and needing more time in bottle. The 2005s are definitely showing well.
AC Bourgogne Blanc (declassified blend of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet)
Bourgogne Les Setilles 2008 Oliver Leflaive
The rather steely, limey aroma on the nose here made me think of Riesling; there is some oak, but it’s not obvious. Maybe it was because it was getting served cold; as it warms, the palate opens up with heavier flavours of banana chips in the lime, a sub-tropical cocktail; not quite the body of a New World wine, but throwing hints in that direction. Quite a creamy texture. I suspect this is relatively good value (retailing at around £14) for the area as it lacks the cachet of being either AC Meursault or AC Puligny-Montrachet. Accessible as an introductory wine.
AC Meursault
Meursault Clos du Cromin 2007 Olivier Leflaive
Initially, I found this rather closed on the nose. The palate seemed watery, with the oak character dominant not because it was heavily oaked, in the way of old-school white Rioja, but because there was relatively little fruit character. However, the mouthful improves a lot as it warms up a little with the emergence of a counterbalancing creaminess. This is a fairly typical Meursault profile.
AC Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet 2006 Domaine Marc & Alexandre Bachelet-Monnot
The first impression on the bouquet is the oak character, a mixture of dust and talcum powder. On the palate, it is a firmer, flintier wine than the preceding Meursault, with flavours of peach and lime. Not an epic or great wine, but a typical Puligny profile.
AC Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2006 Francois d’Allaines
Once again, dusty oak shows up first, but this time with a powerful melon and passion fruit bouquet. This is fairly classic Chardonnay character, in a style veering slightly towards the new world. On the palate, it’s a mixture of honey, melon, oak and banana. This is clearly a wine that’s at its best now, not for cellaring. It’s no more expensive than the preceding two (all retailing at around £25) but is clearly better than them at the moment; I suspect the preceding two might benefit from a year or two of extra aging.
AC Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet 2007 Domaine Jean Claude Bachelet
This is a much harder wine to get hold of at the moment, still tight, not yet very giving on the nose. Quite fine, thin, but very balanced, it feels like something that may give a lot more in a few years time. At the moment, there is light oak among notes of lemon and acacia. At £40 a pop, this is one for the cellar.
AC Meursault
Meursault ‘Vireuils’ 2007 Jean-Yves Deveney
The bouquet offers a notable switch back to the more savoury style of Meursault, with the creamier notes in the wine reminiscent of Brie, along with a hint of lime. This lime quality initially dominates the palate as it isn’t very oaky. However, some oakier notes do emerge as the wine has more time to breathe, again suggesting the wine has development to do and could profitably lie in a cellar.
AC Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clavoillon 2007 Domaine Leflaive
Definitely in the Puligny style, this luscious, floral wine has nothing of the Meursault about it. The oak expresses itself as a creamy vanilla, among intense fruit and complex minerality, all beautifully integrated. Obviously very high quality, even as it is also a bit young. Also expensive, retailing at £50; but rather spend that on this than £40 on the AC Puligny Montrachet Domaine Jean Claude Bachelet.
AC Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne 2006 Château de Puligny Montrachet
Limeblossom and citrus on the nose, with a suggestion of gunflint. The oaking is very discreet and the wine is very well integrated, rather reminiscent of good Chablis. Beautifully integrated, quite restrained, high quality and once more in need of a few cellar years, methinks.
AC Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Perrieres 2005 Etienne Sauzet
A fuller bouquet than on the previous wine, this has the usual Puligny mix of flowers and citrus, slightly heavier oak than the last, and a little more acid. Quite an intense mix.
AC Meursault Premier Cru
Meursault Premier Cru Charmes 2007 Domaine Michel Bouzereau
While Les Charmes does border Puligny-Montrachet, in the case of this wine at least the Meursault character remains quite clear, as among the cream, passion fruit on the bouquet were the very savoury notes of mushrooms and, classic in Meursault, toasted oatmeal. Quite multi-dimensional.
AC Meursault Premier Cru
Meursault Premier Cru Perrieres 2007 Joseph Drouhin
Les Perrieres, bordering with Puligny-Montrachet, is one of the finest premier crus in Meursault. This wine is flintier, with less obvious oak than the last, citric, acidic, and youthful. Tighter just now, it feels like it needs more time.
AC Meursault Premier Cru
Meursault Premier Cru ‘Poruzots’ 2005 Château de Puligny-Montrachet
With a little more age on it, this wine is starting to show very well, offering tropical fruit on the nose together with honey, butter and nuts – a fairly classic Meursault style.
AC Meursault Premier Cru
Meursault Premier Cru ‘Genevrieres’ 2005 Moret-Nominee
Quite an incredible bouquet on this wine, throwing up orange blossom and pastry. The palate is a similarly exciting mixture of fairly classic Meursault, honey and very floral notes among the nutty, oatmeal oak character. Very well structured
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