Toujours at the rosé factory

Provence Masterclass, Edinburgh, 6.10.10

I’ve never been at a tasting with seven different rosé wines before, and I confess to being no great fan of the stuff. I have heard rumours that there are rosé wines that mature and show development – I have been told on good authority that the Château Musar Rosé is one such – but have yet to taste any myself. Since 78% of the wine produced in Provence is rosé, it only seems appropriate that it formed the backbone of this tasting. However, it has not much improved my opinion of the stuff, even if a couple of the rosés we tasted were above the calibre of those that thoughtlessly appear at summer barbecues; it just doesn’t seem to be a style of wine capable of rising beyond a certain, fairly low level. What was more of a surprise were some unexpectedly attractive reds; I’m sure it wasn’t just relief at finally getting beyond the torrent of rosé. Still, all kudos to Rose (no relation to the wine) Murray Brown for putting together a tasting that gave us a good sense of what the region has to offer. Hitherto, it seems, the vignerons of Provence have found a ready market in a relatively undemanding tourist trade, and so have grown lazy; but there are welcome signs that may be beginning to change.

WHITE

AC Cru Classé, Côtes de Provence, Rimauresque Blanc 2009

With pear drops and green leaf on the nose, I couldn’t guess what grape variety this was made from. In any case, it didn’t seem to be very good, bringing back memories of pub wine, with a lemony, slightly soapy palate. I speculated it might be either Sauvignon Blanc or Chenin Blanc, but in fact it 90% Rolle / 10% Ugni Blanc. Rolle is the same as Vermentino, a rather promising variety, while Ugni Blanc is the same as Trebbiano, a not very promising variety. (Italian varieties are prevalent in Provence thanks to the not-so-far-away influence of Sardinia.) I would have expected something better from a Cru Classé, but that may not mean too much in terms of Provençal white wine – I couldn’t get past the olfactory association of pub wine.

AC Cassis, Clos Sainte Magdeleine 2008

Cassis is a small appellation around the port of the same name, not so far from Marseille. The typical local wine is supposed to be a herby white ideal for accompanying the local Bouillabaisse soup. This wine, blended from Marsanne, Clairette and Ugni Blanc, is said to be a good example of the style, although I struggled to pick up any of those apparently typical herby notes. The bouquet is creamy with the faintest, questionable hint of oak aging – I never learned if it had actually spent time in barrel. The palate is light, pleasant, and peachy, if also short and rather simple. I was unimpressed to learn it retails in the UK at £16.75, considering what else one could find for the same money – although these days £17 stretches considerably less than it used to in wine, as in everything. Still, given that white wines make up only 4% of the wine produced in Provence, perhaps we are lucky to be tasting any whites at all; and those that are there can command a premium for rarity. It’s a shame I can’t summon more enthusiasm for this wine, as the photos on the website make the estate and the area look gorgeous, and now they probably aren’t going to invite me.

http://www.clossaintemagdeleine.fr/

ROSÉ

AC Coteaux Varois en Provence, Château D’Ollieres Rosé 2009

Bit of a blank, this wine; I could detect almost nothing on the nose. The palate was similarly void, lighter than most whites, with just a slight tannic tang. At least it wasn’t offensive in any way, and it gave me a new appreciation of the two whites. Clearly one for fresh, thoughtless drinking.

AC Coteaux D’Aix-en-Provence, Les Quatre Tours “Signature” Rosé 2009

At least there is something showing up on the nose here: peach melba yoghurt, which I would always expect to be a white wine note. On the palate, it is short, simple, relatively sweet and swiftly forgettable. The word “signature” in the name was always going to be a bad sign.

AC Côtes de Provence, St.Tropez Cuvée Carte Noir 2009 Les Maîtres Vignerons de St.Tropez

This has a little more bouquet and a little more body. It smells of a mixture of grapes (a strangely unusual tasting note in wine), dilute blackcurrant juice and coconut. With a little more going on in it than the previous two rosés, I wouldn’t object to a glass of this at the proverbial picnic on the terrace. This wine comes from one of France’s sunniest spots, and the long sunlight may have brought the fruit out, giving it that extra bit of flavour for the same runoff of juice.

AC Côtes de Provence, Sainte Marguerite Rosé 2009

A lovely colour, this wine; while the previous two rosés have been an identical shade of salmon pink, this is tinted more like onion-skin orange; beautiful. But not much flavour to boast of; there is a tiny touch of pepper (that, I guess, will be the Grenache in this Grenache / Cinsault / Mourvedre blend) in some white-wine-style citrus. Not very exciting. From another coastal estate near La Londe les Maures.

AC Côtes de Provence, Domaine Sainte Lucie “Made in Provence” Rosé 2009

From the same AC as the St.Tropez and the Sainte Marguerite, but this time from deep inland in the Sainte-Victoire mountain area, the influence of a cooler climate is very noticeable in that it is much lighter-bodied. It is quite fresh on the nose, with an attractive note falling between grapefruit and orange. Definitely a cut up, a pleasure to sip, and £1.50 cheaper than the Sainte Marguerite.

AC Côtes de Provence, Château Coussin Sainte Victoire Rosé 2009

Another wine from the Sainte-Victoire mountains, this is more of a grey-salmon colour. Sometimes the best thing about rosé wines are the attractive shades they can assume, although this is also the most enjoyable of the evening’s rosés. What is most obvious on the nose here is that it has had a small amount of oak aging, and comes across as almost Chardonnay-like, although with added white pepper.

AC Côtes de Provence, Château Miraval “Pink Floyd” Rosé 2009

Apparently Pink Floyd’s “The Wall” was recorded at this Château, hence the name – I suppose we cannot begrudge them a connection with a rosé wine. This one has a more intense reddish colour than any of the previous rosés. The nose is very clearly strawberry. It is fuller-bodied than any of the previous rosés, although I really preferred the zing in the Coussin Sainte Victoire.

RED

AC Côtes de Provence, Château Rimauresque Rouge 2006

A dark but not entirely opaque wine, the nose is a pleasant mix of cumin, jam, and smoke. Not very tannic, it is quite fresh and immediately drinkable, probably without any cellar potential, but pleasant at the moment. A picnic alternative for those who don’t want the rosé.

AC Bandol, Domaine de la Tour du Bon 2006

Notes of parma ham, leather and lavender, together with a little dust from the oak on the palate. Tannin and acid in moderation in a wine that is moderate rather than huge, but has attractive flavours. Although this does come from a very hot coastal area, the fruit is not baked (more jellied). Made from what one might call a French country blend of 55% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, 15% Cinsault and 5% Carignan. Very pleasant.

AC Bandol, Château de Pibarnon 2004

A very similar shade as the Domaine de la Tour du Bon, only going pale at the rim with age. The fruits on the bouquet are more dried than jellied here, mixed in with some herbal backnotes. Still fairly tannic despite the age, so it ought to be aereated before serving. It’d be lovely with veal or venison. This is made from 90% Mourvedre / 10% Grenache.

Coteaux des Baux de Provence, Domaine de Trevallon Rouge 2000

Rather a grand wine (with a bit of age on it) to end the evening. It has a well-mixed bouquet of cherry tunes and beetroot; given a bit of time, wet slate and mushrooms emerge. Concentrated but with very smooth tannins, this goes down a treat now, but would not object to more aging.