Wednesday 25 January 2012

Joseph Swan – Wolfespierre – Chardonnay – 1991

Quite a dark wine – the colour speaks of age, oak and Chardonnay.

An amazingly complex bouquet – layers of flavour emerge. It is peachy and stony to begin with, with a fresh, minty note (which this vineyard was famous for, from both the Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay grapes it produced) and the classic, expected toasty oak. The oakiness only gets stronger as the wine breathes, along with some very unexpected savoury notes: cooked ham, and macaroni. Later on, the fruit has become more pear than peach. Absolutely superb – a delight to follow.

I’ve heard it said that this wine was produced in a more “European” style, although for me, the oak marks it out as absolutely American.

The Wolfespierre vineyard produced Chardonnay and Pinot Noir until 1997, when the vines were uprooted to make way for Syrah.

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