Reichsrat von Buhl – 2003 – Paradiesgarten – Riesling – Grosses Gewächs

N1 is wary of this, since it’s from the scorching summer of 2003 which produced many wines too full, flabby, and jammy for her tastes. The bouquet is remarkably different from the ’02; where that was fruit, this is candlewax and paraffin. I’m delighted; this is the only instance I’ve spotted a classic aged Riesling petroliferous note in the Reichsrat von Buhl stable, but perhaps petrol notes are more characteristic of the Mosel than the Pfalz. N1 remains sceptical; this is by no means flabby, in fact still has quite a good underlying kick of acid, but it does not have quite the lovely structure of the ’02 (although I still find it delightful). Palatewise, plasticine and pineapple.

91/100