I had
my doubts about this bottle, as it was down a bit at the neck and the cork was
somewhat knackered. In fact, though, apart from a slight, initial mustiness
that blew off, it turned out to be in excellent, delicious condition. The more
old Rioja I drink, the more I think it can age better than most Bordeaux.
To
begin with, the bouquet comes across most forcefully as mushrooms and wet
undergrowth, the note that blows off. Then it is a lovely blend of mature red
fruit (I thought of redcurrant) and spiced, savoury pickles.
The
oakiness shows a little more on the finish, which seems short in comparison to
the complexity the wine shows through the rest of the mouth. Not quite the same
delightful, precise, bright fruit of Berberana 1970, nor quite the same
finesse, but a delicious and much more savoury wine from one of the great Rioja
vintages.
(Although
this bottle showed well and gave me immense pleasure, I do expect there are
slightly better bottles of Albina ’70 out there).
92/100
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