That most aromatic of grape varieties Gewürztraminer is typically associated with the Alsace, where until recently I would have presumed it to have originated; but it is in fact the South Tyrolese village of Tramin, where the variety was first identified, that puts the “tramin” into the spice (“gewürzt”). In Tramin they are justly proud of their local varietal, and this Nussbaumer is the flagship wine of the Cantina Tramin cooperative.
A beautiful, heady example; while I don’t exactly want to disagree that it displays the classic varietal character of roses, lychees and grapefruit, I would say that these notes are slightly less prominent than in some Gewürztraminers, leaving room for white peach and white pepper. Very fragranced; the spice and the unusually high alcohol levels of 15% make sniffing this wine reminiscent of a trip to the perfume counter at Boots.
It is also very acidic, unusual for such an alcoholic wine (has something been added?) and the forceful combination makes it quite hard to take on its own – it needs food, and it is the epitome of the wine to go with highly spiced Thai or Indian food. Something of an exception to the guideline that wines go better with cuisine from the area they are made in.
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