Thursday 16 February 2012

Vilmart – Cuvée Creation – 1998


Champagne from the entirely Premier Cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne, with a 70% – 30% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Quite a deep gold colour, and a very Chardonnay-driven nose. Unusually, this champagne has seen some new oak and it shows. Lemon-tart, and discreet but very well-defined yeastiness; just like fresh white bread. Apparently a year ago it was quite tropical, but those notes have since moved on.  
Delicate and precise rather than dramatic or complex. I was surprised both to discover that it had 30% Pinot Noir (because the character is currently pure Chardonnay) and by the restrained yeasty character.

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