Supposedly a Viennese institution, and it certainly is
pretty, with faux gothic vaults and brocaded benches. But the coffee is dire,
and where it once might have been the haunt of Austrian intellectuals, it is
now a nasty tourist trap. Our waiter turned very assertive when the bill came
along and made it damn clear that we had better leave a tip. Boorish behaviour
unworthy of his institution – no one else in Vienna ever did that to us, and as
a result, everyone else got tipped properly.
Go halfway round the block instead, and find the
shopping gallery that runs right through it (from Herrengasse to Freyung) –
there is a delightful small Paris-style café which is far more charming.
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