Emmanuel Rouget – Bourgogne Aligoté – 1992

A wine made from Burgundy’s other white variety, Aligoté – I was amazed to discover there is such a thing as a varietal (not purely geographic) appellation: Bourgogne Aligoté AOC covers any Burgundian white wine made from Aligoté (officially allowing up to 15% Chardonnay as well, although – I am told – it may be common practice to use rather more than that).

A mature colour, almost a pink blush to this wine. Oak, almond, and quite a whack of acid – ironic that 1992 was a plump vintage producing wines that by and large weren’t for aging; this must have been very sharp when it was young. Aligoté does produce very acidic wines. No fruit left bar a hint of lemon; a texture that comes close to suggesting fizz. It feels very unusual to find so much acid in a such a mature wine. Reminiscent of old-style white Rioja.