Dense colour even at the rim; rather darker than
what one expects in Rioja. Very sweet, with highly-charged oak; feels like
something from California. N1 thinks it has been “oaked to death”. There are also
flavours of mushroom and coffee grounds, while the aftertaste is stem and earth.
Plenty of fruit under the oak, and it is the classic sort of Rioja fruit, even
if in a somewhat beefier manifestation; this is not a wine devoid of terroir in
the way that some new and aspiring “super wines” can be. The tannins are not a problem,
but the wine as a whole still feels rough, with a variety of dissonant elements
jostling for attention; needs a decade to come around.
93/100
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